Sunday, January 19, 2014

Point to Point Method for Perfect Paper Piecing

I'm relatively new to paper piecing, but I really enjoy it.  I've frequently been frustrated with the working and thinking backwards and general guesswork which is typically required.  While working on my latest project I had a giant ephiphany.  I haven't seen this method before, so to me, I invented it.  Until someone points out that this method has been used for years, I will continue to feel like a super-quilting-genius!  I hope that this method will be new to a lot of people and will take a LOT of the stress and guesswork out of paper piecing.  Using this method makes it virtually fool proof and very simple.  I hope you all enjoy!

Please note that this post is for people who are generally familiar with paper piecing.  This is not a full how-to instruction.  There are tons of great tutorials out there for newbies and I really hope that what I've come up with will encourage more newbies to try paper piecing because it can be really fun.

1/2" Applique Pins
First, you will need to purchase some very short pins.  I got the ones pictured here online.  They are 1/2" long.  If you do a web search for appliqué pins or sequin pins you shouldn't have trouble finding these.  They came in a 500 pack, which is basically a lifetime supply.  Note, you can use flat head pins, but having the short length makes this method much easier.  I used the really long flat head flower pins until these arrived.

In using this method, there are several important things to keep in mind.  In paper piecing you are always sewing a straight line from point A to point B.  You are also always sewing in numerical order (1, 2, 3, 4, etc).  If you keep these things in mind, you can't go wrong with this method.

Step 1

Step 1: Place the line you are about to sew horizontally in front of you.  In the picture to the left, I am about to sew the line between 10 and 15.  Always keep the higher number closer to you (remember as stated above 1, 2, 3, 4).  Insert the pins pointing down (towards the higher number) at each end of the line you need to sew.  The 1/2" pins are a little tricky to pick up and deal with but using them pays off in the end.  Stick the pins in about 1/2 way (1/4").  Push the pins down so they lie pretty flat.  Keep the pins perpendicular to the horizontal sewing line (as much as you can).


Step 2
Step 2: Flip your piece as shown in the picture.  Now the pins are facing up and sticking out of your project approximately 1/4".  Note, one of things that makes placing your pieces difficult is the odd angles that the previous pieces end up at.  This can create an optical illusion which messes up your placement and often causes me to have to re-sew (grrrr).  Even a very small angular mis-alignment of your next piece can cause you to have to rip it out when it doesn't properly cover the area it needs to.




Step 3
Step 3: Place the the fabric piece you need to sew by aligning the edge with the tips of the pins.  Make sure you center the piece between the pins as well (same amount sticking out on either side of the pins.  Note, if you know you pins are sticking out a little too far or not far enough (more or less than 1/4"), you can adjust the position of the fabric in relation to the pins.  Remember that the pins are there as a guide.  They are little arrows pointing your way.  Pin your piece in place using a long flat pin.  If the piece I am pinning is quite long, I will use two pins.  Once you've so nicely placed the piece, you don't want it to move.  Additionally, ensure that you place the flat pin well away from where you will be sewing.  As you can see in the picture, my pin is far away from my guide pins and won't interfere when I sew the seam.

Step 4
Step 4: Flip your piece carefully and remove the first small pin.  Sew your seam and remove the second pin as you go. As you can see in the picture to the right, you end up with a nice straight piece, which will flip into the proper position.

Step 5: Fold your paper back and trim your piece.  As you can see below, most of the time you'll barely be trimming off a small sliver of fabric.  This means that when you flip the piece you just sewed, you're basically guaranteed that it will be in the right position and cover the entire area it is supposed to.

Step 5
And there you have it.....I'm so happy to share this with you and hope it helps people.  On a final note, I've included a picture of my paper piecing workstation setup.  I keep a small cutting mat and ironing board to the right of my sewing machine so that I can quickly trim, flip and iron without getting up.  I also keep my scrap catcher nearby as paper piecing creates a ton of fabric and paper scraps.

Paper Piecing Workstation Setup

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