Write it down.....

I recently read an article about the sins we commit as quilters.  One of them I am very guilty of is not writing things down or not writing them down in an organized fashion as I go.  I hope this post will motivate me and many others to commit to not sinning in this way any longer.  Our quilting lives will be better for it.  We rush and think we'll remember, but I never do.

What don't I write down?  I keep track of project costs in an electronic log (my computer is not near my sewing room).  I'm terrible about writing down how much background fabric I used, etc.  I think I will remember and I NEVER do, or I write it on a little scrap.  When I find the scrap weeks later, my note-to-self of 25" white never jogs my memory.  Was I doing math, or was I writing down how much I used and which project was this for?  

The second thing I don't write down in an organized way is my quilting math.  Whether I'm resizing a pattern or doing something simple, I should keep a spiral notebook and clearly write the pattern I'm working on and clearly show my math and what I'm doing.  I should be flogged for this with my engineering degree, it was beat into me to show all work.  I guess I get a -D minus in this category now.  When I write down my calculations it usually looks like a mad scientist has stolen my notebook. I can never go back and figure out what I was doing.

Third, when working a project, it's a good idea to use the electronic log or the notebook page mentioned earlier to write down what yardage is being used (manufacturer and collection), if of course, it is printed on the selvage.  I'm usually pretty good about remembering this info, but I did recently have to help someone search the web for a white on white that they didn't have enough of to finish a project.  The person was in a bit of a tizzy over it.  luckily I found it, but it made me paranoid and resolved me to write this post and start a new spiral notebook where each project will have its own page for notes and math that will be clear and organized.  I've realized that taking a few minutes to be organized will only make my projects come out better and make me a less manic quilter!

Point to Point Method for Perfect Paper Piecing

I'm relatively new to paper piecing, but I really enjoy it.  I've frequently been frustrated with the working and thinking backwards and general guesswork which is typically required.  While working on my latest project I had a giant ephiphany.  I haven't seen this method before, so to me, I invented it.  Until someone points out that this method has been used for years, I will continue to feel like a super-quilting-genius!  I hope that this method will be new to a lot of people and will take a LOT of the stress and guesswork out of paper piecing.  Using this method makes it virtually fool proof and very simple.  I hope you all enjoy!

Please note that this post is for people who are generally familiar with paper piecing.  This is not a full how-to instruction.  There are tons of great tutorials out there for newbies and I really hope that what I've come up with will encourage more newbies to try paper piecing because it can be really fun.

1/2" Applique Pins

First, you will need to purchase some very short pins.  I got the ones pictured here online.  They are 1/2" long.  If you do a web search for appliqué pins or sequin pins you shouldn't have trouble finding these.  They came in a 500 pack, which is basically a lifetime supply.  Note, you can use flat head pins, but having the short length makes this method much easier.  I used the really long flat head flower pins until these arrived.

In using this method, there are several important things to keep in mind.  In paper piecing you are always sewing a straight line from point A to point B.  You are also always sewing in numerical order (1, 2, 3, 4, etc).  If you keep these things in mind, you can't go wrong with this method.

Step 1

Step 1: Place the line you are about to sew horizontally in front of you.  In the picture to the left, I am about to sew the line between 10 and 15.  Always keep the higher number closer to you (remember as stated above 1, 2, 3, 4).  Insert the pins pointing down (towards the higher number) at each end of the line you need to sew.  The 1/2" pins are a little tricky to pick up and deal with but using them pays off in the end.  Stick the pins in about 1/2 way (1/4").  Push the pins down so they lie pretty flat.  Keep the pins perpendicular to the horizontal sewing line (as much as you can).

Step 2

Step 2: Flip your piece as shown in the picture.  Now the pins are facing up and sticking out of your project approximately 1/4".  Note, one of things that makes placing your pieces difficult is the odd angles that the previous pieces end up at.  This can create an optical illusion which messes up your placement and often causes me to have to re-sew (grrrr).  Even a very small angular mis-alignment of your next piece can cause you to have to rip it out when it doesn't properly cover the area it needs to.

Step 3

Step 3: Place the the fabric piece you need to sew by aligning the edge with the tips of the pins.  Make sure you center the piece between the pins as well (same amount sticking out on either side of the pins.  Note, if you know you pins are sticking out a little too far or not far enough (more or less than 1/4"), you can adjust the position of the fabric in relation to the pins.  Remember that the pins are there as a guide.  They are little arrows pointing your way.  Pin your piece in place using a long flat pin.  If the piece I am pinning is quite long, I will use two pins.  Once you've so nicely placed the piece, you don't want it to move.  Additionally, ensure that you place the flat pin well away from where you will be sewing.  As you can see in the picture, my pin is far away from my guide pins and won't interfere when I sew the seam.

Step 4

Step 4: Flip your piece carefully and remove the first small pin.  Sew your seam and remove the second pin as you go. As you can see in the picture to the right, you end up with a nice straight piece, which will flip into the proper position.

Step 5: Fold your paper back and trim your piece.  As you can see below, most of the time you'll barely be trimming off a small sliver of fabric.  This means that when you flip the piece you just sewed, you're basically guaranteed that it will be in the right position and cover the entire area it is supposed to.

Step 5

And there you have it.....I'm so happy to share this with you and hope it helps people.  On a final note, I've included a picture of my paper piecing workstation setup.  I keep a small cutting mat and ironing board to the right of my sewing machine so that I can quickly trim, flip and iron without getting up.  I also keep my scrap catcher nearby as paper piecing creates a ton of fabric and paper scraps.

Paper Piecing Workstation Setup

I'm brand new, what do I need to start quilting?

I've wanted to post about this for a while and since I've had numerous requests I'll finally indulge.  I've taught several people and I start everyone off the same way.  This isn't the only way, just what I've found to be effective.
Please note I've edited this post to include a couple more items in the misc. category.

#1.  A sewing machine or access to a sewing machine: 

If you don't already have a machine, I recommend borrowing one until you decide if you like this little hobby obsession.  I do not recommend going out and buying a machine until you are more educated on what you want/need from the machine, unless money is no object, then by all means, go out and purchase the most expensive machine you can afford (Bernina 820QE anyone?).  The reason I recommend this is that most people will go out and buy a relatively inexpensive machine, thinking that "We're just sewing straight lines, why do I need fancy features?".  For example, my first sewing machine was about $75.  I used it for years and originally used it mainly for making clothing. It was a workhorse and over 10 years later its still going strong but as soon as I started quilting I quickly grew to hate using my little manual Kenmore machine.  Almost everything about this machine made piecing quilts more time consuming and difficult and forget about trying to use this machine to actually quilt a quilt (free motion or otherwise).  So, I recommend waiting and saving up for a really nice machine that has the features you need even if its not the Cadillac I mentioned above.

If you do have a machine or access to one, by all means, use it to get started.  This will help to keep your initial investment low and you can get started right away.  If your machine hasn't been used in a while I recommend taking it in and having it professionally cleaned/serviced (usually costs between $65-75).  There's nothing worse than working with a temperamental machine that hasn't been properly serviced especially as a beginner.  

One more note for those who fall into the category of digging an old machine out of their closet or a friend's closet, for the love of God, buy a couple packs of new sewing machine needles.  They're cheap and aren't meant to last for years.  Using an old needle or the wrong needle for the fabric you're working with can cause a catastrophic failure which can be quite scary.  So, if you have no idea how long the needle has been in the machine, or what type it is, its time to just throw it away.  You can use general purpose needles for quilt piecing.  I often buy Singer or Schmetz brands.  I keep quilting, general purpose, heavy duty and topstitch needles on hand at all times, depending on what I need to sew (yes, it does make a big difference).

#2. A 1/4" presser foot for your sewing machine: 

This is the MOST IMPORTANT THING!!!!!  If you do not have this, do not begin.  Most older machines or machines not sold as quilting machines will not come with this foot.  You can google around and find the one that fits your machine.  They're not expensive.

Unlike sewing clothing, where a 5/8" seam is standard and corresponds to a line etched into your machine's bed, in quilting, you line up your fabric edges with the presser foot of the machine.  If you're in doubt about the foot, sew something with it and measure the width of the seam that comes out.

#3. Cutting tools: 

It can get out of hand w/ the cutting tools...

If you start sewing with me you're in luck because I have almost every cutting/measuring tool known to man (I'm a gadget freak).  I even have some rulers in duplicate (b/c I forgot I had it) and several that aren't even opened or I haven't used!  If you're not that lucky and are starting from scratch, you need 3 basic things: a rotary cutter, a cutting mat, and an acrylic ruler.  I recommend newbies purchase this set.  You can get it on Amazon or at JoAnn fabrics for half price.

The 4th tool you will need is a 12.5" square ruler.  My favorite brand is Creative Grids.  I buy this brand whenever possible.

Always ensure you also have at least one extra blade for your rotary cutter on hand.

#4. Thread:

If you talked to 100 people they'd have 100 different favorite threads.  I've used a ton of different ones.  My only recommendation here is get a good quality one (you usually get what you pay for).  Don't buy the el-cheapo ones.  You can use cotton or polyester for piecing.  In the beginning I recommend having white, cream, grey and black on hand.  And those tiny little spools don't go far in piecing, so get larger spools if you can.

#5. Misc. Items:

You'll need some small scissors for trimming and a seam ripper (sorry, but you WILL need it).  Get some 1 1/4" pins and if you're feeling ambitious get some of the 2" fine pins that have flat heads (usually w/ flowers or butterflies).  You will also need some hand sewing needles (a variety pack is probably good) and a thimble.  You will also need to get some curved safety pins for basting your project.  It is also worth it to pay a little more and get the better quality ones.  You will need quite a few of these.

There you have it, I believe this is all the basics.  I'll do a follow-up post talking about good candidates for a first project and how to get started.